Traveleriences
Riga's old town and the Daugava river seen from above

Riga → Vilnius

4 days2 citiesBus connectionModerate
Riga
Vilnius

In 60 seconds

The route in 60 seconds

The southern half of the Baltics, in two very different capitals. Riga is the largest city in the region and has Europe's densest concentration of art nouveau; Vilnius is smaller, Baroque and unexpectedly bohemian. Four hours of bus between them, with the Hill of Crosses a worthwhile stop on the way.

ArchitectureHistoryBudgetFood

Stops

Where you sleep

Stop 12 nights

Riga

Latvia

Art nouveau district, the Central Market and the wooden suburb of Kalnciema.

Stop 22 nights

Vilnius

Lithuania

Baroque old town, Užupis and the hill views from Gediminas.

Day by day

How the days fall

The order we would follow, with the transfers already in the right place.

Day 1

Riga

Old Town and the art nouveau district.

  1. Morning

    Old Town on foot

    House of the Blackheads, the cathedral, and the three surviving medieval streets.

  2. Lunch

    Central Market

    Eat in the hangars. The Latvian smoked fish counters are the reason to come.

  3. Afternoon

    Alberta iela & the Quiet Centre

    Thirty minutes of facades, then the art nouveau museum.

  4. Evening

    Miera iela

    The city's alternative street — bars, a chocolate factory, no tourists.

Day 2

Riga

Wooden Riga and the river.

  1. Morning

    Kalnciema Quarter

    Restored wooden architecture across the river; Saturday market if the timing works.

  2. Afternoon

    Latvian National Museum of Art

    The best collection in the Baltics, in a properly grand building.

  3. Evening

    Dinner in the Quiet Centre

    Latvian produce cooking has improved enormously — this is where to find it.

Day 3

Riga → Vilnius

Bus south, evening in the old town.

  1. Morning

    Coach to Vilnius

    Four hours, or five with a stop at the Hill of Crosses.

  2. Afternoon

    Vilnius Old Town

    Cathedral Square, the university courtyards, and up Gediminas hill for the view.

  3. Evening

    Užupis

    Dinner across the river in the self-declared republic.

Day 4

Vilnius

Baroque interiors and the Jewish quarter.

  1. Morning

    St Anne's & St Peter and St Paul

    Two churches that between them explain Lithuanian Baroque.

  2. Afternoon

    The former Jewish quarter

    The Green House museum and the streets around it. Sobering, and essential context.

  3. Evening

    Vilnius wine bars

    A small but genuinely good scene around Vokiečių and Stiklių.

Transport

Between destinations

  • Riga → VilniusBus4 h 00

    Frequent coaches; the express is barely more expensive. Break the journey at the Hill of Crosses near Šiauliai if you have the time.

Highlights

Key experiences

If the trip is cut short, these are the four to protect.

Alberta iela, Riga

One street with the densest art nouveau facades in Europe. Look up, then visit the museum at number 12.

Riga Central Market

Five zeppelin hangars full of food. The fish hall is the one to walk slowly.

Užupis, Vilnius

A self-declared republic across a small river, with a constitution nailed to a wall in twenty languages.

The Hill of Crosses

Two hundred thousand crosses on a mound outside Šiauliai. Best as a break in the bus journey.

Stay

Where to stay

Riga
Stay in the Quiet Centre rather than the Old Town — better buildings, fewer stag parties.
Vilnius
The Old Town is small, walkable and quiet at night. There is no reason to stay elsewhere.